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The Tujia Costumes
The Tujia ethnic minority has a long history, dating back 2,000 years, has a population of approximately 8 million people, and the Tujia nationality mainly distributed in compact communities in the Tujia Miao Autonomous Prefecture in western part of Hunan Province and Enshi Tujia Autonomous Prefecture in Hubei Province. They are a brave minority on the beautiful and fertilized ground in Hubei Province and Hunan Province, live with Han nationality and Miao nationality together. Their name of Tujia means the native people; they also professed themselves as the name of Bizika.
The costumes of Tujia ethnic minority are greatly affected by that of the Han people. Only in some remote areas, they keep some traditional costumes. The Tujia costumes are made of cloth they weave with their own hands, using bright colorful embroidery on the hems and scarves. The General History of the Ming Dynasty calls it "striped cloth." In the Song Dynasty they called it "brook cloth" and "brook-cave facing." Tujia brocade is made by waist weaver. It takes yarn as warp and silk as weft. The weaving method is "interweaving the intermittent warp and incessant weft."
Their favorite colors are black and blue. Tujia women are very skillful at knitting. Traditional cloth, known as Xilankapu has a history about 2000 years, XiLanKaPu was used in imperial palace in Qin and Han Dynasties. It is famous for its exquisite skill, live type, intensive country and traditional features. In TuJia language," XiLan" means "bedcover" and "KaPu" means "flower". So, XiLanKaPu is bedcover brocaded with flowers. With colorful type, symmetrical thread and durable, it is precious art merged practice and appreciation. The traditional hand-woven cloth with intricate designs is the main material used for clothings.
Women wear loose and short-sleeved jackets with embroidered borders and buttons on the front-left, and long skirts, while some wearing long black or blue trousers. They often coil their hair up and wear a cap or wrap it within a cloth, wearing various ornaments such as necklaces, earrings, and wrist and ankle bracelets. Black cloth head wraps are common for both men and women.
Influenced by the neighboring Dai and Han people, men in Achang ethnic minority tend to wear blue, white or black jackets which button down the front, and black trousers. The unmarried like to wear white coif, yet the married people like to wear deep blue coif. Young adults prefer to wear 40 to 50 cm long headcloth behind their heads pinned with one or two flowers. A man going out with an Achang knife is handsome and powerful.
Married women generally wear skirts and jackets with tight sleeves and pailform skirts that reach the knees. They decorate the elbow of jackets with inlaid strip of white cloth and wrap their heads with black or blue cloth. Bachelorettes wear trousers and coil their pigtails with 3-cm-wide cloth on top of their heads. Achang women like to insert flowers on their headcloth, and generally wear three to four silver chaplets and a long silver chain around their necks, and wind a silver chain around their waists, with silver adornments on their heads, around their wrists and on their ears.
Tujia costumes take on the following four cultural connotations: 1) it is an important mark reflecting Tujia socail development; 2) it is an important aspect reflecting Tujia cultural communication; 3) it is an important expression reflecting Tujia aesthetic taste; 4) it is an impotant carrier reflecting Tujia religious belief. The study of these cultural connotations of Tujia costumes is of some academic value for deepening the study basis of Tujia costumes and of realistic significance for innovating Tujia costumes.
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